Contrast of Vientiane, A Tropical Morning and the Taste of Authenticity
My second morning in Laos arrived. Perhaps because my itinerary was so packed, it already felt as though I had been here for days. May marks the beginning of the rainy season in Laos, but luck was on my side—not a single drop of rain fell, and my umbrella remained untouched in my bag.
The weather was unexpectedly merciful. A local acquaintance mentioned that just the week before, Vientiane had suffered through a scorching heatwave exceeding 40°C (104°F). Fortunately, the temperatures had dropped significantly for my visit. A rain-free, relatively cooler week in the tropics? I couldn’t have asked for better luck.
Still, a Laotian morning in May is plenty warm enough for a swim. Looking down at the hotel pool, I felt a pang of regret. I had paid for these facilities, yet all I could do was stare at the inviting water from afar. If only I were more of an avid swimmer, I would have fully embraced that morning luxury.
I headed down to the hotel restaurant for breakfast. Before my trip, friends who had traveled to Southeast Asia always raved about the local fruit. I had assumed it was partly a placebo effect—the joy of eating fruit on vacation. But taking a bite here, I realized the difference was undeniable. Whether it’s the farming methods, the specific tropical cultivars, or the climate, the fruit was remarkably sweeter and richer.
More importantly, it’s about the distribution process. Tropical fruit exported to Korea is picked unripe and matures during transit. In Laos, the fruit is harvested at the exact moment of peak ripeness and served almost immediately.
While the fruit was universally delicious, the local savory dishes presented a slight challenge. They looked visually identical to Asian foods I had seen back home, but the flavor profiles and spices were distinctively different. Had I been in Korea, such minor variations wouldn’t have bothered me. But here, in an unfamiliar environment where I was still adjusting, these subtle culinary differences made me a bit hesitant to eat heartily.
The Empty Palace and the Pink Delivery Bikes
By midday, with the sun high in the sky, we set out for the Parkson Mall.Located in one of Vientiane’s more affluent neighborhoods, it’s a universal truth that wherever luxury department stores are built, wealth inevitably surrounds them. It was only about 4 kilometers from our hotel, a quick 10-minute drive.
Stepping into the hotel elevator, I noticed a promotional poster: a 30% discount on “Retreat Services” from Monday to Thursday, between 11:00 AM and 4:00 PM. Had I possessed the luxury of free time, I would have gladly taken advantage of that midday deal.
On our way, we drove past the Presidential Palace. Ironically, the President of Laos does not actually reside there. It felt a bit like a kingdom without a king.
Still, since it is a highly restricted government building, two guards stood at the main gates. Standing perfectly straight, wearing masks, and battling the sweltering heat to protect a building with an extremely low probability of being attacked, I imagined they were desperately counting down the minutes to their shift change.
While I hadn’t ordered delivery food during my stay, it was clear that Vientiane boasts a robust food delivery culture. Motorbikes branded with the bright pink logo of Foodpanda zipped through the streets. Interestingly, Foodpanda is operated by Delivery Hero, the very same German parent company that acquired South Korea’s massive delivery app, Baedal Minjok (Baemin). Even though the service name is different, the globalized convenience of app-based food delivery is fully alive and well in Laos.
Temples, Heatwaves, and a Pasta-like Bank
Right across from the Presidential Palace sits Wat Sisaket, a prominent Buddhist temple. While South Korea also has a deep Buddhist heritage, the religious presence in Laos feels significantly more vibrant and ingrained in daily life. The temples are massive, numerous, and emit a profound sense of absolute unity through faith.
Seeing this massive temple occupying prime real estate right in front of the Presidential Palace made me wonder about its history. Was the city built around the temple, or was the temple deliberately placed at the center of power? Either way, situated near the flat plains of the Mekong River, it is undoubtedly a geographically perfect location.
By noon, the Vientiane sun was unleashing its full fury. The heat was so intense it felt palpable even through photographs. People say taking a hot sand bath is good for your health, but in this weather, burying yourself in the sand might literally cook you. The scorching rays were merciless not just to humans, but to nature as well; even the tropical trees and flowers, supposedly accustomed to this climate, looked utterly wilted and drained of energy.
As we continued, we passed the Asian Development Bank (ADB). The building’s architecture was quite striking. In fact, if you didn’t look closely at the sign, you could easily mistake its stylish, slightly retro facade for an upscale Italian pasta restaurant.
Whether it was a design ahead of its time or one that simply failed to keep up with modern trends, it certainly stood out.
Parkson Mall: A Glimpse into Vientiane’s Retail Scene
Backed by Malaysian capital, Parkson Mall is a sprawling shopping complex consisting of one basement level and five above-ground floors. However, during my visit in May 2023, floors three through five were completely empty and non-operational—a stark reflection of the local economic struggles. The mall’s vitality was concentrated entirely in the basement supermarket and the first floor, which housed cosmetics, clothing boutiques, cafes, and restaurants.
To my surprise, the first floor featured a Lotteria (a South Korean fast-food chain). Seeing a familiar domestic brand in a foreign land always brings a rush of unexpected joy. It is one of four Lotteria branches in Vientiane, and remarkably, there were no other global fast-food burger chains in sight. The fact that Lotteria operates exclusively in Laos without competition from global giants suggests a uniquely successful business negotiation.
Right nearby was a Starbucks. When this branch—the very first Starbucks in Laos—opened on the first floor of Parkson Mall, it made national headlines. (As of 2023, there are only two in the country, the other being at the Viewmall I visited the day before). Unsurprisingly, stepping into this Starbucks felt like walking into a meeting point for South Korean tourists; familiar Korean chatter filled the air.
Before entering the mall, I noticed a large golden Buddha and an elephant statue guarding the entrance. In this region, grand buildings are almost always accompanied by such statues. Though my understanding of Buddhist symbolism is limited, the intricately gilded figures possessed an undeniable, majestic aura. And as always, an elephant looks its absolute best with its trunk raised high toward the sky.
Joma Bakery Cafe: A Local Coffee Legend
Before arriving in Laos, I had read countless blogs and watched YouTube videos raving about Joma Bakery Cafe. Founded in Vientiane in 1996, this homegrown Laotian brand has expanded across the country and even into Vietnam. Known for using high-quality coffee beans harvested from the Bolaven Plateau in southern Laos, I was incredibly curious to taste their offerings.
Fortunately, there was a branch right on the first floor of Parkson Mall. (Aside from this location, they operate three other main branches across Vientiane. Rumor has it their carrot cake is phenomenal, though sadly, I didn’t get to try it this time).
The menu highlighted their bestsellers and recommended drinks. Unsurprisingly, the classic Americano and their Signature Lao Iced Coffee were top sellers, while the Lemon Cold Brew was highly recommended. Much like in Korea—perhaps influenced by the global Starbucks culture—Iced Americanos were incredibly popular here.
The menu was staggeringly diverse, rivaling any major global coffee chain:
- Americano: Small 28,000 Kip (approx. 2,100 KRW) / Iced 37,000 Kip (2,700 KRW)
- Signature Lao Iced Coffee: 37,000 Kip (2,700 KRW)
- Cold Brews: ranging from 30,000 to 36,000 Kip
- Blended Smoothies & Shakes: 32,000 to 46,000 Kip
- Food & Bakery: Everything from Beef Bolognese Pasta (64,000 Kip) to Breakfast Burritos (55,000 Kip) and Fruit Salads (30,000 Kip). (Note: If you drink your coffee inside the cafe, they offer one free large refill on Americanos and iced drinks!)
I lined up our drinks—including a refreshing Iced Americano—like trophies on the table and busily snapped photos. Had I been a dedicated Instagrammer, I would have spent ten minutes finding the perfect angle.
Looking out the cafe window, the sunlight was beautiful but terrifyingly intense. It felt hot enough to make you question if you were still on Earth. Sitting at the outdoor terrace tables at this hour seemed entirely impossible—unless you had lost a bet and were enduring a cruel punishment. Life is hard enough; there is no need to increase the difficulty level by baking in the Laotian midday sun.
After coffee, we briefly checked out the basement supermarket. It was similar to any premium department store food hall, stocked with imported goods from China, Japan, and Korea. Naturally, manufactured goods here were pricier than at local discount marts, but the premium quality of their fresh produce, meat, and fish was evident.
Returning to the parking lot, a massive wave of heat hit me. It wasn’t just the sun; it was the trapped, heavy air mixed with the engine heat of the cars. Among them stood a rugged, heavily modified pickup truck that looked like it had driven straight out of the movie Mad Max.
- Location: Parkson Laos
- Address: 011 Kjouvieng Road Nongchan Village, Sisattanak, Vientiane, Laos
Talat Sao: The Nostalgic Morning Market
The name Talat Sao literally translates to “Morning” (Sao) “Market” (Talat).
If you want typical, consumable souvenirs like dried mangoes, the modern supermarkets we visited earlier are perfectly fine. But if you are hunting for something uniquely Laotian, Talat Sao is the place to go.
Located just a kilometer from Parkson Mall, arriving at Talat Sao felt like stepping back in time. It is a massive indoor complex that resembles the bustling, pre-department-store shopping centers of South Korea. If you changed the items on sale, it gave off the exact same chaotic, nostalgic vibe as Seoul’s Yongsan Electronics Market or the Namdaemun Import Underground Arcade in the 1990s.
The architecture was a fascinating hybrid—a slightly rough, Chinese-style building that served as a transition phase between a traditional wet market and a modern shopping mall. It felt like a massive bus terminal arcade packed with endless corridors of clothing, electronics, cosmetics, and street food. This, I realized, is the true face of modernized local commerce.
The Art of Souvenir Shopping
My guide led me to a specific souvenir shop. Finding it is a bit of a maze: enter through the main gate, take the first aisle on the right, walk about 40 meters, and it will be on your left. Because every inch of the corridor is packed with shops, you have to keep a sharp eye out.
The shop was overflowing with trinkets reminiscent of the souvenirs sold at the entrances of Korean national parks during middle school field trips decades ago.
Here, I purchased a golden elephant framed art set for $7 USD. Considering the average monthly wage in Laos hovers around $100 USD, this was an astonishingly premium price tag. Clearly, this shop catered exclusively to foreign tourists. If this was the “discounted” price, I couldn’t imagine what the original asking price was.
I also bought several keychains shaped like a Khaen, the traditional Laotian bamboo mouth organ. Since they came in bulk, they were perfect for handing out to acquaintances back home. While they felt a bit pricey, I bought them without haggling. When traveling, acquiring an item that distinctly represents the country’s culture holds intrinsic value. Plus, since my local guide mentioned the price was already discounted, bargaining felt inappropriate.
Talat Sao might not offer premium luxury goods, but for authentic, culturally unique keepsakes, it is an unbeatable destination.
- Location: Talat Sao Morning Market (ຕະຫຼາດເຊົ້າ)
- Address: XJ87+3QR, Ave Lane Xang, Vientiane, Laos
A City of Time Slips
Walking back outside, the heat was unrelenting. It wasn’t the sticky, humid heat of a Korean summer; it was a piercing, direct heat—like being under a magnifying glass. This perfectly explained why nearly all the local motorcyclists were fully covered in long sleeves and pants. Riding provides a breeze, but shielding the skin from the vicious UV rays is a matter of survival.
Looking around Vientiane, the cityscape is a fascinating patchwork. A traditional Laotian wooden house sits right next to a European-style colonial building. In between, you find empty lots and halted construction sites with no workers in sight. I was told that buildings here are often constructed piecemeal—built only as funds become available. It strongly reminded me of South Korea’s rapidly developing past.
Traveling through Vientiane feels like experiencing a genuine “time slip.” The physical environment and architecture evoke decades past, yet everyone is navigating this nostalgic landscape using the latest smartphones, modern delivery apps, and global services. This juxtaposition—a quiet, uncrowded capital where the past and the present seamlessly intertwine—is precisely what makes Vientiane so profoundly memorable.
2023 Laos Travel
- Laos Travel Diary Part 1: From Incheon Airport to Vientiane Wattay Airport
- Laos Travel Diary Part 2: Crowne Plaza Vientiane & Traditional Dining at Kualao Restaurant
- Laos Travel Diary Part 3: Vientiane Samakee mart & Unwinding with a Traditional Lao Massage
- Laos Travel Diary Part 4: A Nighttime Encounter with Patuxai & A Malaysian Feast at Four Seasons Restaurant